Toile and trouble - how to achieve a good fit

Toile and trouble - how to achieve a good fit

Using a toile or mock up is often over-looked. This post describes an example where the use of the toile allowed for a much better fit than could be achieved in other ways. It describes making a made-to-measure 17th Century singlet for re-enactment of the English Civil War.

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A Labour of Love - How stiff is stiff?

A Labour of Love - How stiff is stiff?

Using the best available materials to mimic original construction of historical clothing from the 16th and 17th century can reveal a lot about the clothing, its shape and how it was worn. In making a reproduction of a 1640’s doublet, we have used cork to stiffen a belly piece as it was originally done. The results are quite stunning but were they worth the extra effort?

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A Labour of Love - Conspicuous Consumption in Fashion

A Labour of Love - Conspicuous Consumption in Fashion

Hidden conspicuous consumption? This contradiction in terms might apply to the modern interpretation of fashion in the 17th century when we are not all aware of the techniques used to create the various parts of the clothing. I propose that the fashion for tabs on doublets was actually conspicuous consumption, having just finished making 8 of them.

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A Labour of Love - Constructing a 1640's Doublet

A Labour of Love - Constructing a 1640's Doublet

Getting to grips with pad stitching to form the curved parts of the doublet in the shoulder and the tabs or laps. This is what distinguishes tailors form seamstresses in the early modern period. Tailors create 3D shapes in fabric. Seamstresses make strong, durable garments that are flat but can be washed lots of times.

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A Labour of Love - A 1640's Doublet in Silk

A Labour of Love - A 1640's Doublet in Silk

Constructing a replica of a 1640’s doublet in crimson silk - this post starts a series following the reconstruction of a doublet for use in banqueting and having fun with re-enactment.

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Book Review with a Twist: Modern Maker 1

Book Review with a Twist: Modern Maker 1

A review of the Modern Maker series by Matthew Gnagy. These excellent books provide a range of advice, techniques and tips on making C16th and C17th clothing in the original manner to get the right shape and look. Using one of the techniques, we have extended its use successfully and present this here too.

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