New in! Natural hodden grey wool from British Wensleydale and Loaghtan sheep. Ideal for bodices or cloaks. Best modern match for “russet” wool.
Merchant Woman - photo courtesy of Chris Capell
Women’s clothing in the 17th Century was based on social rank as much as current wealth. The photo here shows a merchant wife of the middling sort - what we today would call middle class - well off but not showy. The key items worn by all women were:
shift - linen under-dress only visible at the bust line usually.
bodies or stays, - a corset to create a conical shape not to create a tiny waist. These could be pretty and seen as the outer “bodice” or underwear and hidden under a further bodice layer.
Bodice or waistcoat - this can be part of an over-dress or separate. Waistcoats are less “structured” than bodices and more like a coat.
Skirts - usually several layers and can be worn with a bum roll to create the look of wide hips and narrow waist whatever your actual shape!
Apron
Coif - a linen cap to hide the hair and protect a hat from hair oil
Cloak - only used for travelling, cloaks are more common in re-enacting than paintings of the time. Alternatives are more layers of bodices or waistcoats
Hat if outdoors - not always necessary but great for warmth or to keep the rain off! These can be all sorts of shapes and sizes from “stove pipe”, through broad brimmed to knitted statute caps and tudor bonnets.
Shoes - sturdy leather shoes as people in 17th Century walked more than we do
Properly Dressed can supply any of these items apart from the last two - shoes and outer hats.
Basic Bodice and Stomacher.
The basic bodice design is for the “middling sort”, not farm worker and not gentry but townswoman or craftsman’s wife. It is more fitted than men’s coats and so may require a fitting in person.
The image shown is not from an original pattern so new items will be based on the “Anduxar 1640 Doublet” from The Modern Maker Vol 2 by Mathew Gnagy. This is based on a tailors manual and uses original Spanish tailor’s methods of re-sizing an existing pattern to fit individual customers.
This bodice may be lightly boned, which must be worn over a well fitting corset, or can be fully boned, which does not need a corset but will definitely need at least one fitting.
The colour is by agreement but the materials are wool outer, linen lining and canvas interlining. The “bones” are artificial whalebone (baleen) bought from “Sew Curvy”.
CORONA VIRUS: Any bodice made until after the current lockdown is eased will be made to measurements, posted and then adjusted as much as possible if the fit is very poor.
Prices
Basic lightly boned bodice
From £160 - deposit £70
Stomacher
Plain coloured - included above
Embroidered stomacher - price and details to be agreed.
Fully boned bodice
See the prices for corsets or stays as a fully boned bodice is a corset with suitable outer fabric for day wear.
Please add 4 weeks to the current waiting time as an estimate of delivery date. Delivery date will be confirmed when the deposit is paid.
Basic Waistcoat.
The basic bodice design is based on an un-adorned version of the “Pink Silk Waistcoat” in Seventeenth-Century Women’s Dress Patterns Book 1 edited by Susan North and Jenny Tiramani. The design has been adjusted to suit a lower class outfit and no bumroll or hoops as the original was designed for. These can be allowed for if required.
The image does not show the front of the waistcoat as the closure can be varied to suit the taste of the client, see opposite.
The colour is by agreement but the materials are wool or linen outer and linen lining. Some areas may be stiffened with other fabrics. To achieve the right shape, a well fitting corset or boned bodice must be worn under the waistcoat.
CORONA VIRUS: Any waistcoat made until after the current lockdown is eased will be made to measurements, posted and then adjusted as much as possible if the fit is very poor.
Prices
Basic waistcoat
£150 - Deposit £70
Front closure options
Hooks and eyes only - included
Ribbon ties only - included
Hooks, eyes and decorative ribbon ties add £15
Other closure and price by agreement
Please add 4 weeks to the current waiting time as an estimate of delivery date. Delivery date will be confirmed when the deposit is paid.
Basic Skirts
Skirts can be made to match the waistcoats and bodices or your existing costume. Skirts can be lined or unlined. Materials are wool or linen outer and linen lining. The waistband can be stiffened or soft depending on how you intend to support it. Skirts can be provided with a light kirtle top to support the weight on your shoulders not waist (more details available)
Although there is less work involved in producing a basic skirt, there is a large amount of fabric. The difference in cost between lined and unlined is the cost of fabric for the lining and the total cost will depend on the fabric you choose and its cost.
Prices
Lined Skirt
£135 - Deposit £75
Unlined Skirt
£90 - Deposit £45
Light Kirtle top
Add £10
The price includes a silk point tie to close the waistband and a simple ribbon around the skirt at hem height.
Please add 4 weeks to the current waiting time as an estimate of delivery date to allow for the order time for fabric. Delivery date will be confirmed when the deposit is paid.
Reviews
“I am so pleased with my dress, I want to wear it all of the time”